Giles Restaurant was East Troy’s cafe of choice for 47 years. Homemade cooking was its hallmark for success; Agnes Rice and Mary Edwards were its early owners and standard bearers. Good food travels fast, and in their short time together they established a reputation that preceded itself. Giles became the “Best of the Best.”
The birth of “Giles” (Ji-uhls) restaurant began when Ginny and Jack Giles opened the doors in 1956. The restaurant was located on the south side of the Square; the current site of the barbershop. Their tenure lasted 5 short years, but hearsay claims the name “Giles” was synonymous with “homemade” cooking. Ginny and Jack had laid a Golden Egg. The path was clear, “homemade” cooking was the key for success.
And so it came to be in 1961, Mary Edwards and Agnes Rice, both 40+ years of age, became the new proprietors of Giles restaurant. As ironic as it may sound, neither Agnes nor Mary had any experience as restaurateurs; however, they were two ambitious women from North Prairie who had a dream. Prior to Giles, Mary worked at Pet Milk and Agnes worked at IGA grocery. Agnes acquired her cooking skills in the military during WWII while stationed in New Guinea, and Mary, during her youth, learned how to bake while living at home. Passion and ambition were key ingredients for their success. It was fitting that Agnes became the cook for daily meals and Mary the baker for daily pastries, pie, and bread. Mary also waitressed and handled the books. Each day the ladies started working before the crack of dawn.
Mary was a strong willed woman with rigor, qualities necessary for running a business. Agnes was easier going and a bit more reticent with her opinions, but they were a complement for success. The restaurant was small in size, long and narrow, with a few tables and some counter seating. Few employees were needed: a griller, a dish washer, and a couple of waitresses; Mary and Agnes handled the rest. Mary Edward’s daughter, Dorothy, and Agnes’ daughter Mary- Ruth pitched in to help pick up the slack. Mary lived above the restaurant and Agnes lived a couple blocks away on Division St. No excuse, the doors opened at 6am sharp every day.
Homemade bread was their claim to fame, but their roast beef and mashed potatoes was right behind. From egg salad sandwiches to homemade soup, all dishes were oh-so! flavorful.
Agnes and Mary supported “The Badge.” During their early morning work hours a beam of light would occasionally peer through the back door scouring the area. Of course, the men in blue were rewarded with a cup of coffee, a sweet roll, or even some toast and eggs.
Partnerships, like marriages, have their moments. One morning, Mary got a little too bossy with Agnes and the next thing you know Mary was sporting a raw egg on her head. Fortunately, Mary lived upstairs, but it’s doubtful Agnes cared at the time. Sh** happens. Giles carried on in good form.
Many local high schoolers were hired along the way, such as Jack Gillihan ‘62, Dick Jablonski ‘63, Al Kostopolus ‘64, Jone Gillihan ‘66, and Joel Wilcot ‘66 to name a few.
15 years passed, it was now 1976, Mary Edwards decided to retire, instigating the sale of Giles. It was a bittersweet time. It was the end of a memorable era. Mary Edwards was the epitome of hard work and dedication, but as all things must pass, Mary was replaced by Pat Ebert, a young woman of 31, who would take over the reins and become Giles’ new owner.
Pat Ebert (nee Hess) was a native of south Chicago whose parents owned a cottage on Eagle Springs Lake. Summer visits to the lake allowed Pat to become familiar with the East Troy area. As she grew older, Pat would work as a waitress and helper-cook at various establishments within the area. One day, a bread delivery man told her that Giles’ restaurant was up for sale. So it came to be, Pat became the new owner of Giles restaurant, bequeathed with the “Golden Egg.” Pat retained Agnes Rice’s service as cook for the next 15+ years which was a smart decision on Pat’s part, for Agnes would help pave the way for Giles’continued success. Picking up where Agnes left off, cooks: Jane and Cylinda took over the helm.
In 1977, Pat hired Rosie Gerth, known to many as the “singing waitress.” Rosie brought her own “salt and pepper” with her. She was a dynamo that could wake you up without a cup of coffee. Warmhearted, yet her wit could cut you up like a knife. Love her or hate her, you risked being on the blunt end of sarcasm. Rosie was a stand-up comic, Giles was the theater, and the dining room was her stage. She put on impromptu performances daily. There was a time, a customer requested coffee from Rosie. He turned his cup over and she began to pour. She said to the man, “Say ‘when’ when you’ve had enough.” Rosie kept pouring as the cup overflowed. The man was taken aback and said, “Why don’t you stop?” Rosie quipped, “You didn’t say ‘when.’”Rosie was a maverick who added an endearing charm to Giles’ reputation.
The beat goes on, Pat was a “mover and shaker” and wanted more for Giles. In 1981 she rented space from the adjacent building to the east and opened a Sweets Shoppe where Sharon, Pat’s baker, created Giles’ famous cinnamon and pecan rolls. Pat made candy and cakes, and taught candy and cake making lessons, also offering supplies for their creation [“no rest for the weary”].
A couple years later, opportunity knocked, and Pat and Jon Ebert purchased the adjacent building and decided to curtail the Sweets Shoppe and expand Giles’ dining room; however, Pat would not, could not, and did not let go of those tasty cinnamon and pecan rolls 😋. Home made cooking continued with success, and the rest is history.
Many regular patrons, such as Lester and Dorothy Rose, Art and Betty Parman, Ken Kehl, Larry Mitten, Bob Brobst, Bill Stoflet, Bud Krause, or Al Smith and the famous S.S. (Social Security) Club crossed the threshold at Giles looking for a home cooked meal. So many faces and names, from employees to patrons, it is hard for Pat to remember them all, but as ironic as it may sound, Pat could remember them more by what they ate than their name.
Giles, our beloved cafe for 47 years, would close its doors for good in 2003. Giles is now only a memory, but she gave us many fond memories to enjoy. Agnes, Mary, and Pat have to be proud, and rightfully so, for Giles was “The Best of the Best.”
The local cafe is the heartbeat of small town life, where people are genuine and gratitude runs deep. The cafe is the working man’s eatery. Giles was East Troy’s heartbeat for nearly a half century, exemplifying quality and the “American Dream.” Giles demonstrated that through hard work, pride, and commitment we all have a chance to make it in this world.
Written by: Pete Kesselhon
